Below is a list of the tools that trikebldr used when stripping and assembling a Catrike with Lucinda C. (Pink Panther) .
Says Bruce: Some are listed as the set they are a part of. I’m a big fan of Park’s line of tools, but you can substitute for a lot of them. With this list, you can tear a current model Catrike completely apart.
Park Tools list (with Park parts numbers)
Polylube 1000 (PPL-1)
Antisieze compound (ASC-1)
Master link pliers (MLP-1)
Allen wrench, folding set (AWS-11)
Cable and housing cutter (CN-10)
Pedal wrench (PW-3)
Chain whip (SR-1)
Bottom bracket cup wrench (BBT-9)
Crank removal tool (CCW-5)
Crank extractor (CWP-6)
Cassette lockring removal tool (FR-5G)
Bottom bracket retainer tool (BBT-32)
Chain breaker (CT-3)
Adjustable spoke wrench (SW-10)
Wheel truing stand (TS-2)
Wheel dishing guage (WAG-4)
Cone wrench set (SCW-13 through SCW-18)
Repair stand (PCS-9)
All other tools
Calibro (from Catrike)
FinishLine KryTech Wax Lubricant
Allen wrench set, metric, 1.5mm-10mm, ball-end type
Allen wrench set, SAE, 1/16-3/8″, ball-end type
Crescent wrenches, 6″ and 12″
Channel-Lock pliers, 6″
Side cutters, (!+%*%)
Torx wrench, T-25
Ratt-tail file, 3/16″ or 1/4″
Small mill file, 8″
1/4″ drive torque wrench, 0-100 in/lb
1/4″ drive allen bit set, metric
NOTES- Of course, a lot of these can be substituted for according to personal preference. The lubes are a personal choice. The wheel truing stand and dishing guage are Park’s best and can be substituted for much cheaper. Park makes a new hammer (HMR-2) with a replaceable rubber face on one end and a steel face on the other. It’s very nice and at $10.95 a pretty good deal. Both allen wrench sets are available at Lowe’s as HUSKY brand as one set (about $20). The side cutters are for crimping the cable-end ferrules, and for cutting the excess cable tie ends.
The multi screwdriver I use is a Cobalt brand from Lowe’s. They have several different styles and sizes. Cobalt are good tools, and they go along quite well with all of the Park blue tools!!! The files are for when you drive the axles out with something a little too hard and kick up a burr that won’t let it go back in! I also use a 3/8″ drive torque wrench on some things because Park’s 1/4″ TW only goes to 60 in/lbs.
The repair stand is a personal choice, but I looked at many, and tried fitting my Speed into them, and only the clamping head on the PCS-9 would fit a Catrike frame at the point where it gives a good balance so you can spin the trike to any angle you want for work. Lucinda already had a different stand, but she found out the hard way the same thing I found. I bought the cone wrenches as a set, but we only used the 15mm during the teardown of a rear wheel hub.
Spoke wrenches are also a personal choice. Pedro’s makes a great set, as well as Park. I have found that I use two different sizes on one wheel at times because nipples are often not very consistent in dimension. I just make sure that the wrench fits very tight on the nipple. If one gets rounded, then you will need the adjustable wrench to work it. The adjustable spoke wrench is about $32, but well worth it the first time a nipple rounds off! Park’s four-sided spoke wrenches are better yet. They grip the spoke at all four corners of the nipple to help keep it from slipping. I believe that Pedro’s makes these, too.
Needle-nosed pliers will do the same job as the master link pliers. Lucinda and I never did tear apart the freewheel (don’t confuse this with the cassette!) on the rear hub, nor did we remove it from the hub. Most books say that it takes a 10mm allen wrench to remove the freewheel from the hub, BUT, I found in all five Cats that I have around here that it takes a 7/16″ allen to fit. Maybe Rick (recycledteen) will chime in here to verify what he used to remove his a while back?!?!?! BTW, 7/16″ allens aren’t EASY to come by! The special “socket wrench” that it takes to open up a freewheel can vary, so you need to check with your local bike store to find out which one you need. Most shops don’t mess with them. They just replace the whole freewheel assembly. About the only reason to open one up is to clean out the heavier grease and put in a lighter grease, or use oil in an effort to reduce rolling friction during coasting. It DOES make a difference. If anybody NEEDS to know which tool it takes for Cats, I can look up which one I use.
One last tool I have and use that I would like to mention for you serious wrenches, but didn’t break out while Lucinda was here, is my bottom bracket threading/facing tool. It’s a Park BTS-1, and it ain’t cheap! If you only have one or two trikes/bikes to maintain, just have your lbs do the job. They usually charge about $55 to do the thread chasing and shell facing job, so if you have it done nine times, you’ve paid for the tool!
Of course, good friends, good music and good food go a long way to making the job go better! You’re on your own there, though!